Time and again the city of Kyoto has worked its mysterious power on conquerors and casual visitors alike. It makes them want to stay. Ask any member of the large international population who came here out of curiosity and found themselves settling to devote years of study to Zen, or calligraphy, or any one of a number of other traditional arts. The beauty and refinement of the ancient capital transforms everyone who sets foot in it. The imperial court and aristocrats who ruled ancient Japan set the tone for Kyoto …